Comment by Tru Pac/Walttools/Don on December 5, 2011 at 10:19pm

Lee, this looks really cool.  Very "Inca" with some of the shapes.

Comment by Lee Woolsey on December 5, 2011 at 10:33pm

Thanks Don. We were to keep the stones large since it was such a large wall. The have a cool 'crackle-glass' light fixture that goes here. Looking forward to seeing it installed.

 

Comment by martin jelic on December 7, 2011 at 1:50pm

what colors you used here? Acril or dipresions colors?

Comment by Lee Woolsey on December 7, 2011 at 6:28pm

Those are colored using Butterfield Elements colors, mostly taupe, stygian, kona brown, and cordovian leather. The stone in the lower left may have been touched up with some acid stain (I used a coffee, weathered terra cotta and a medium brown on some stones because the butterfield colors were being completely absorbed)

Comment by Nelson Lasaosa on December 7, 2011 at 6:45pm

Yeah nice work Lee.  As you used a bit acid stain, may I ask why not using acid stains all over your stones? Why are  B.Elements colors superior when compaired  to acids, cost, handling...?

Comment by Lee Woolsey on December 7, 2011 at 7:06pm

Nelson, we didn't use acid on everything because the tones they create are all in the brown range and so many of the native stones we are trying to match are primarily gray. Color bleeding down the wall is also an issue. The Butterfield colors can be diluted with water as they run down the wall (per Nathan's method -- I always have one water-filled spray bottle in one hand, and I suspect that I control the color more with water that with actual dye.) T he acid stains leave color everywhere they touch and drip, it looks cool in some places, because it gives you and instant weathered look, but things can turn into a mess quickly. I typically dilute the acids I use by adding 50% water, then I pre-wet the stones and apply just a little-bit of acid color to them, then move it around with my water-bottle.

Kenny, I didn't neutralize any of these because I used so little acid (and so much water) that it dried on its own. Typcially I have a bottle of ammonia & water that I'll spray to neutralize heavier acid applications. (Thanks for the compliment, not sure it's actually warranted.  I see so much work on here that just blows me away, I'm happy to just hang-out and learn by seeing what other guys are doing!)

Comment by Nelson Lasaosa on December 7, 2011 at 8:03pm

Love the shapes and textures, and in my view they do look more natural being like you`re coloring them, namely mostly on the whitish, cream side with some tones to avoid monotony. Did you use those three-way silicones or all hand carving around the corners? Thanks for answering in detail. Hope to get my FIRST real vertical carving  job next year, currently working on design. If ..., no if`s, the darn work must come out right, or I`ll be a dead dude, lol.

Comment by Lee Woolsey on December 7, 2011 at 8:10pm

I did not use the three-ways on this. (I have a full set!) These where carved with a 'mini-me' pool trowel and the corners cleaned-out with a 3/8 and/or 1/4 tuck-point trowel.

Comment by Nelson Lasaosa on December 7, 2011 at 8:15pm

When there`s no hands-on workshops around, every tiny bit info helps, now the tough part: put it to practice and come up with something decent. THANKS!

Comment by martin jelic on December 9, 2011 at 1:54am

hello Lee ,

how sthick you average the mortar have applied? m2, and how much you make skanners a day, without color?

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