Bruce...that is a Modello stencil over a layered acid stained floor. we used torn paper edges to flash with acid stain and water based dyes, we also threw some ironite to react with the acid. The stencil was positioned and also stained with water based dye (should have used solvent to prevent bleeding), but it turned out well. for exterior you'll need a UV stable product. If you have any questions let me know. Mike Branch
At 5:10pm on December 27, 2008, victor arias said…
Bruce,
I get my blocks locally, But try univfoam.com. Also call local fiberglass pool companies, when they ship pools they place them on blocks of foam.
Bruce,
I posted a picture of Farmhenge when it was only Styrofoam. If you have anymore questions feel free to ask.
How did you get into this line of work?
Bruce,
I don't use any lath. I apply a concrete overlay right on the styrofoam as a scratch coat (sprayed/brushed/handrubbed). Then you could apply any cementitious material you want (anything Nathan teaches) as long as the material has polymer (bonding agent) in it.
As far as farmhenge, that is also big blocks of styrofoam. We dug 4' post holes with 10' rebar sticking up.
The old methods I use to use was from a manufactuer called Boulder Image. It used light weight cement to do the main sculpting, the flaw with the system was it was hard to get textures like Nathan teaches. Think of it as Dryvit. Anymore questions let me know.
Bruce,
Thanks for the compliment on the Tiki's. Most of my work is done with very large pieces of styrofoam. The large Tiki is two pieces of 3' x 3' x 8' tall glued together. We get the major relief done with sawzals and chainsaws. Then we coat it paint it and seal it. Styrofoam is cheap and solid.